Cuisine Review

By Kinnon Phillips
Cuisine Editor

When I travel to another city, I spend a lot of time beforehand finding out what to do, and more importantly where the locals eat. So often when you travel or even move to a new area, the true local flavor or special items are not at first evident.

I search the Web and ask people I meet where they eat and what activities they like to do in their town. I get a nice amount of mail from out-of-town readers and newcomers about where to find a certain restaurant, or should they go to a certain place. We take this for granted sometimes, growing up here. What would be on your list of the must eats for a newcomer? Places or items unique to our area are what come to mind.

We have lots of great restaurants, but this is not a greatest hits list. My listing is by no means exclusive either, and if you think you should have been included let me know – these were just on the top of my mind.

A Dew Drop Dog, Oyster Loaf or Chili Cheeseburger

The Dew Drop hot dog has been written up numerous times locally and nationally. A recent USA Today article listed them among the top 10 hot dogs in the nation. Their ground beef chili, on top of an old fashioned red wiener, with kraut, mustard, a squirt of ketchup and extra pickle can be found nowhere else. I have eaten these since I was a child.

The large fried oysters in a hot dog bun are also a required try, along with a burger that is pure basic. You can eat two of, well, all of these items as none of them are large. Their burger is about the size of McDonald’s one, with better meat, piled high with chili and a melted slice of cheese. The Dew Drop is a plain place with well worn booths, laid back waitresses, children running around and grandma drinking Bud from an ice cold glass of beer.

A steak with gorgonzola cheese sauce at Osman’s

For me, the atmosphere is not stellar at Osman’s, but the warmth of the people – both owners and diners – makes it a pleasurable place to dine. I would hold their rich gorgonzola sauce against any Italian, and while you can have it ladled on just about anything on the menu, it is best on their perfectly cooked filet. Creamy, salty and rich, it infuses flavor into every bite of a steak.

A meal on the deck at the Blue Gill or Ed’s Shed

These are two different views to choose from, both of which show off the beauty of our area. If you can cram inside before the crowd gets there, get to the Blue Gill on a Sunday afternoon, enjoy some fresh seafood, cold beer and immerse yourself in the Delta.

Then stay for a great lively time of live music. Across the causeway, Ed’s commands an unparalleled view of sunsets on Mobile Bay out on their deck. Any of the fried items at Ed’s are worthy, but try the grilled shrimp or some of the best cheese grits around.

Good home cooking at the Big Time Diner

Almost in West Mobile, the Big Time has been turning out good, old-fashioned home cooking for quite a while. It is virtually impossible to get a dependable meat and three, especially at night. Their chopped steak and any vegetable under the sun are a good indoctrination to our local flavor and they have an Italian dressing that I could eat every day.

And don’t forget a milkshake. And here is a find, at presstime I am planning to try out the Big Time Burger, their new burger joint on Cottage Hill in the old L.A. Subs location.

Ice cream, shakes and sundae’s at a real parlor

Few towns our size still have a local ice cream parlor, and at Cammie’s Old Dutch Ice Cream, their own recipes have been churning for decades. The prices are criminally low compared to the generosity of their scoops. Beyond the Big Time, these are the only shakes I eat – the coffee and strawberry are my favorites, but vanilla is fabulous as well. Sit down, and they will put down an old fashioned doily and cool cup of water to share with your ice cream at a real ice cream table.

Fried Fish Night at Bailey’s

Hopefully you have read my recent review on Bailey’s, but if you have not, here is the deal. It is a quick drive on Wednesday night to have an unbelievable meal of fried fish caught that morning, cole slaw, hush puppies, succulent tomatoes and cheese grits – all-you-can-eat for a mere $12. And experience some South Mobile County hospitality.

Wintzell’s Oysters

Gosh I used to cuss when people took out-of-towners here. And then, it seemed that every time a client of mine would come to town they wanted to eat at Wintzell’s over and over. What was the secret? After eating here a few times over the last few years I have declared that it is no longer the tourist trap it once was.

It is an institution, one of our oldest restaurants and is due respect – they were the only place open downtown at night (that was reputable) for many years. The signs are cool and the oysters freshly shucked. If you have never had oysters, or visited downtown – head here first.

A burger at Callahan’s

Callahan’s is another place to soak in the atmosphere – it enhances the food. A friendly neighborhood joint, this Irish pub throws open the windows in good weather and sheds light on the dark wood paneling, Irish memorabilia and interesting photos. Their burger is the biggest and one of the best in town. You can get bacon and just about any type of cheese you want on your burger, or have it made into a patty melt. And while the cucumber tomato salad is perfect, don’t pass up the salty Golden Flake chips, at least on your first visit.

Do you have your own musts for newcomers or visitors? Hit me up at kphillips@lagnaippemobile.com and I will share them in a future column.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.



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October 07, 2008
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