Old Bay Steamer

It has been awhile since you have been able to read an actual review. In between the storms and catching up on my real job, I have not eaten very healthily. But, someone recently gave me an Old Bay Steamer gift certificate and being low on funds, I thought the family ought to head over to Fairhope and eat there this past Sunday. Now, I had never been to the new location, which is probably not new anymore, just to the south of Greer’s on the right.

The last time I went to Old Bay Steamer was probably 20 years ago. It still pains me to write that I was doing anything 20 years ago as it forces me to realize I’m not 25 anymore. It was also one of my first dates with my wife.

I do not remember being impressed (with the Steamer, that is. I was impressed with the girl). In fact, all I do recall is having a blowout on the Bayway coming back to Mobile. My wife was impressed that I did not lose control and was able to put my spare on while pulled over on the Bayway. She told me later she thought I obviously had skills as a potential handyman. Only later she realized it was a freak occurance.

In the present, after church the family headed over on a quick drive to Fairhope. Upon entering the Steamer, I was not enthused. The former location I still recall as being a little shabby and this one is about the same, dark with no windows in the main dining area. There is a nice, small bar with televisions on the front near a large window. Personally, I would have switched it around.

Fishing signs and café au lait walls, plastic tablecloths topped with glass—you get the picture. Our hostess was pleasant, but I soon realized she was not only the hostess but the waitress for everyone. The room was almost full, with four tables of four and a group of eight. This was a recipe for disaster.

On Sundays they serve from the lunch and a special brunch menu. There are several omelets, waffles, etc. Wanting to try an appetizer, I selected the smoked tuna dip ($7.50), a cold dip I vaguely remembered as being pretty good. Other appetizers are stuffed mushrooms, baked oysters, West Indies salad and gumbo. While we didn’t try the gumbo (not on a hot October day), one of the reasons I thought the rest of the food would be good was due to the praise this gumbo has received. It has been confirmed by many as chock full of seafood with a nice roux.

The menu is fairly extensive, in fact almost too much so—another warning sign. At first the only thing that piqued my interest was a Venetian sandwich ($8.25), a grilled chicken sandwich with jack cheese and sautéed onions or the grilled grouper with a garlic butter vegetable sauté ($8.95). The grouper comes with broccoli, potatoes and a salad. Instead, I asked about the fresh catch. Yellow fin tuna had arrived just the day before and I chose to have it seared on the grill.

The kids’ menu has a selection to please any child. My wife ordered a crabmeat omelet from the brunch menu, one child ordered the chicken fingers and another the Caesar salad.

My green salad arrived very quickly. The vegetables were fresh and the dressing tangy and sweet. It was a honey mustard ranch vinaigrette and quite good. My wife found it too sweet, but despite sounding weird it worked.

Well, it was all downhill from this point onward. Our poor waitress was hustling to keep up with the large table and unable to properly take care of the rest of us. A woman would appear from the kitchen to bring out food, but otherwise offered no assistance.

We waited and waited for the smoked tuna dip. Two tables that arrived after us got their food before us, which is always annoying. After about 30 minutes, some of our food began to appear. The adult food came out first—go figure. I would think a salad and chicken fingers would be fairly easy to prepare and get to the table.

The omelet was wrong—crawfish instead of crabmeat. My tuna was accompanied by a large hunk of broccoli and yellow rice.

The tuna was absolutely perfect. It was grilled and seared to perfection - not light pink, yet not too rare. I love rare tuna, but this was one step away - tender and delicious all on its own. The rice had no taste, but the steamed broccoli was a welcome accompaniment to the tuna.

Finally out came the chicken fingers, which appeared to be cuts of breast rather than prepackaged. The corrected omelet was delivered along with bacon and a bowl of cheese grits.

The crab tasted fresh and while not likely lump, had a delicate flavor and was generous. The bacon was crisp and curly and the grits were a little too thick and were tasty, chock full of cheddar cheese. There is really nothing to say about the Caesar, not great not bad.

The disappointment was that we did not get to eat together. It was like when your kids are little and you have to eat in shifts so someone can keep them entertained. Oh, I almost forgot, which they obviously did, about the tuna dip. It arrived just as I was finishing my meal. Now, it was not like they had to cook this up or make it fresh. Likely this was sitting in the refrigerator.

For this, I expected it to be free. But, by this time I wanted to blow all of the gift certificate, so I wouldn’t have to come again.

I felt sorry for our waitress who was trying her best, and some of the food was good. But I do not recommend that you go.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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