Guido's Brunch

Stop following the Pentecostals to Barnhill’s or the Baptists to China Doll this Sunday after church. Select a new place to try and eat away that hangover. Sunday brunch choices in the Mobile-Baldwin area are few and far between. Nothing other than chains, Chinese or Mexican seems to be open. The addition of Callaghan’s brunch on Sunday’s was the first good local move. Their regular menu is enhanced on Sundays with some inventive options.

On Mother’s Day, Guido’s in Oakleigh began serving brunch. Right now, at this moment, I find Guido’s to be the best restaurant in Mobile. They have their act together and are creating wonderful meals with beautiful presentation. And the brunch is not only affordable, but out of this world. Please go. Guido’s is serving Sunday brunch as long as the demand is high. I liked it so much that I have gone two Sundays in a row. Each time, I never needed to eat again that day.

The cool, shaded main dining room and back room of Vinny’s is used for brunch. There is just enough light coming in the front room to be pleasing when seeking an air conditioned respite from the summer heat. You are greeted with a small bowl of cut fruit upon your arrival. The bar is open for anything you would like, including Bloody Marys and screwdrivers. I have made reservations both times, and on Mother’s Day this was a must. But last Sunday we went rather early and there were enough seats for walk-ins. As always at Guido’s, the menu has frequent changes and is listed on a large chalkboard. On my second visit, there were maybe three changed out items from the week before. What are unbelievable are the prices. There were only two choices above $9. And wait to hear what was served.

To begin, Guido’s brings in their famous, well-made Crab and Corn Bisque. Chock full of medium size pieces of crabmeat, it is perfect to lead off the morning. A number of salads are found here as well. Their Greek Salad and Mixed Green Salad was present on one weekend, the Caesar and Spinach another. I crave the spinach salad. Fresh, deep green spinach leaves are almost decoration for the plethora of walnuts and crumbled blue cheese, tossed in balsamic dressing. This is a Vinny’s selection during the week, and I sometimes order it with grilled chicken on top. The Caesar is zesty. Any of these salads should be split, unless you want to make them your meal.

It was hard for me to decide what entrée to get on both times. Everything on the menu was enticing. There are several Benedict versions leading off the choices. Traditional led the list on my first visit. The most innovative offerings are a Fried Oyster Benedict, Crab Cake Benedict and a Salmon Benedict. I can only imagine how tasty the Fried Oyster Benedict tastes. What is endearing to me about Guido’s is the cooking style. They are taking basic recipes, but giving them a quirky twist that works. Other items are a Monte Cristo Sandwich—ham and cheese grilled on battered bread and topped with strawberry preserves. You get the idea.

For children, there is French toast, pancakes or you can order a la carte eggs, grits and/or a biscuit. They will also alter the adult menu items to suit children’s palates. It is refreshing that they are accommodating to families.

The first time, I selected the Frittata. A large, quarter of an entire pie was presented, garnished with bright and purple miniscule baby greens. The plates are presented beautifully here. Red peppers, spinach, portabellas and goat cheese competed with each other for space. The density alone makes this no sissy choice. Like everything else on the menu, it was served with a choice of either roasted potatoes or smoked Gouda grits.

Soft and smooth, the grits have to have been made with cream. The Gouda infused the grits with mild flavor, rather than overpowering the grainy taste. Both of my children ordered the Cornflake Crusted French Toast. Thick slices of white bread are shellacked with cornflakes, spread with soft butter and engulfed in maple syrup. Eating it tastes like bread pudding, it is hard to categorize it as breakfast. My wife selected one of the two items that are over $9, a Petite Rib eye with Three Eggs and smoked Gouda grits. This was similar to my selection at Commander’s found in an earlier review, with this one worthy of standing alongside it. The steak was medium rare through and could almost be cut with a fork. All of us got the grits on both visits.

My parents were in town the next weekend. Living in Atlanta, they are accustomed to great restaurants, and I often hesitate to take them out, lest they have a mediocre meal, in their opinions. They were quite impressed, with both the food and the prices. My wife and parents all chose the same thing - Fried Grouper with a Shrimp Tasso Creole Sauce on top of the Gouda grits. Decadent is the word that comes to mind. The description says it all here. On Mother’s Day, the Chicken and Biscuit with Sawmill Gravy had caught my eye - an oversized boneless piece of chicken dominates two fresh biscuits, smothered in creamy, sausage dotted gravy, three eggs (mine were poached, medium). I was just about full halfway through, but I could not stop, leaving only one bite to be taken away. It is fine. One child ordered the chicken and biscuit without gravy, the other poached eggs with grits. We all came home and took naps.

Have I made my point about why you need to go? Good food at affordable prices - really too good, in my opinion - needs to be supported. I have been telling everyone how great it is. Take a drive down to the Garden District for a complete, pleasing gastronomical experience.

Just pray ahead in church for forgiveness for the gluttony you’re about to commit.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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