Cuisine Review

Earlier this year I wrote a column on the places where I eat on a regular basis. The list was not exhaustive or ranked in any way. I lost the menu from the restaurant I was to review this time, and since they are over the bay I had no time to fetch another. So, next time.

This necessitated that my second installment of my all-time eateries (I hate that word “eateries,” it is kind of like the word “slacks” to me). I heard from many who had hurt feelings that I forgot them – actually one, and I hope that I can make it up here (a tongue in cheek statement).

Callaghan’s Irish Pub – Lord knows I cannot believe that I did not name this one first and foremost. I have been quite a regular fan. But now that I live closer, I eat here at least once a week for either lunch or dinner. I have reviewed their brunch and other items in prior columns.

For their Sunday brunch you have to either arrive early or late to ensure that you get a seat. It is not too fancy but does have some flourishes – great staples like eggs and bacon all the way up to a creamed shrimp dish. I have eaten everything on their regular menu and tend to rotate through the list.

The chips and French onion dip, mixed on the premises, is, from what I understand, a sure-fire hangover stopper, but even those few of us who never have that experience love it as well. I do like it when they bring an overflowing basket of large, salty, ridged chips to the table. No one does a Reuben in my opinion as good as theirs, the burgers are hand-formed with the patty melt my standard and the chicken club is another. The atmosphere is comfortable and pleasant with harried, but nice, good servers.

Delish’s Desserts – Living and working downtown I do not get a chance to eat here regularly, but have frequented them a lot lately for lunch. Tremendous sized brownies, cookie bars and thick slices of cake cannot be missed, the soft serve yogurt makes you at least feel like it is healthy, but I load it up with nuts and coconut.

When you are feeling poorly, the chicken noodle soup is restorative. I tend to order the special of the day and bypass the sandwiches. Recently I tried the BBQ plate with sweet, chopped meat, potato salad, beans and a brownie for a ridiculously low price.

The place is cozy and bright and the workers are cheerful. They are located in Midtown at Upham and Old Shell Road. The chicken salad deserves a mention as well. While someone else wrote that Bivona’s is the “place to be seen for the Ashland Place set” my lady friends in that neighborhood sure do lavish their attention on Delish, as do professionals working in the area.

Serda’s – While I have not yet reviewed Serda’s new location on Royal Street just north of the Riverview (the first is in Tillman’s Corner), I have found them to be reliable with great food, coffee, smoothies and gelato. With a full bar, they are open at night as well with the same food menu.

Watch out and do not be fooled by ordering the peanut butter and banana smoothie however. Thinking I was being really healthy, I sucked one down explaining all the while I could not believe it was low in bad fats until someone told me it is full of vanilla ice cream! I have had it a second time anyway.

The Santa Fe wrap with chicken is pressed and warm and I like their potato salad a great deal. I have also had a breakfast bagel with egg and white cheese along with a few non-fat lattes. The smoothies, especially the mixed berry are fantastic and cheap compared to the other places in town. You can add a scoop of energy, protein, whey powders to make it a full meal. They are also open on Saturday day and night, which is a plus.

Café 615 – Recently I reviewed them for brunch and their lunch is another tried-and-true for me. I like to take clients and friends here for lunch because it is conducive for a quiet conversation and a dependable meal. My guests usually order the crab cakes and I always go for the fresh catch grilled or broiled, I cannot remember which. It comes with nice vegetables and often rice.

The burger is another surprise as you would not think a restaurant of their caliber would put out a good one, but it is not greasy, but juicy with ground sirloin and not too hefty in size with fries. For a lighter meal the salads are nice as well with homemade dressings, I believe. And while the prices are above those of some local lunch spots, they are not out of sight.

Brunch is lively, festive and damn good. I have oft spoken of how much food they serve, that the champagne flows freely and at $20 is another great deal. The sausage empanadas, fresh catch with a different sauce (I had a wonderfully light tomato sauce recently) and a crawfish dish stand out the most.

Original Oyster House – Yet another place that I have re-found recently. Beautiful views of the Delta afford a truly unique venue. Yes, the parking lot is always full of cars, but the wait is not too long if you do not go at peak hours. I say try and sit in the main room with the salad bar. Why? Not just because of the view, but I think that the best waitress in town works that room.

Her service, professionalism and knowledge are a testament to what service should be. She has guided me toward some good fish choices, and while at market price, I have splurged at lunch for the fresh catch, broiled. They are able to consistently put out some tender, juicy broiled fish, which is a feat.

Many bemoan the fact that all we have are fried places. The Oyster House has plenty of these selections, but the broiled and grilled items along with the huge steamed platter with cabbage is awesome. No one has an old time salad bar like them either. Many times I make this a meal with fresh peas, shredded carrots, diced ham, chopped egg and their delicious honey mustard dressing that is more brown and zesty than yellow and sweet.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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