Bakery Cafe

Consistency is important to many people, often surpassing creativity and uniqueness. Even in those instances, consistency should be expected. As long as a place, its wait staff and food are always the same, some just create a habit of eating there.

For several years, if not since its inception, The Bakery Café has had some of the same items on the menu. I do not mean this to sound as if it is negative. However, after a while the novelty wears off, especially if the cooking is off one time or another. My experiences at the Bakery had drifted slowly to banality. So, I just stayed away for a bit, not railing against them or anything, but giving them a break.

I recently had a conversation with someone from the Bakery who stated that they were going to revamp their core menu and focus on their strengths. This was appealing. My wife had also had a good lunch there, so we decided it was time to go back. In one week, I deliberately ate there twice to not only sample, but also to check on consistency.

The weather has been beautiful, with the sun shining bright, perfect for lunch al fresco. Other people obviously had the same idea on both days, so I chose to sit in the bar, which was awash with the warm sun. I ate like a rock star, as it was necessary for me to wear my sunglasses inside to block out the glare. I specifically chose to sit in the bar instead of the dining room. I like to people watch both inside and on the street and there is more bustle in the bar area.

While my service was not swift, only on the second visit did I begin to bitch to my tablemates. The lunch menu is a somewhat diverse selection of soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees. Each day for soup you can have either the shrimp bisque or gumbo (cup $3.95, bowl, $5.95). The bisque has a nice amount of shrimp blended into cream that is neither bland nor spicy. A cup of the bisque or gumbo can be paired with a half Caesar or Bakery salad ($7.95) or a half chicken salad for ($8.95).

Other notable salads are the Classic Caesar salad ($6.95) which has the standard romaine, onions and Romano cheese, yet the addition of grilled mushrooms puts it into another category, along with the mildly creamy dressing. The smoky juiciness of the mushrooms marries well with the Romano and enhances the dressing. I started a meal with this and did not leave a bite (well, maybe a few purple onions, since I hate raw onion). Grilled Chicken ($8.95), Ahi Tuna ($9.95) or Fried Shrimp ($8.95) can be added on top.

The Bakery Salad ($6.95) can have either of these three added onto to it as well. In my opinion, if you choose the Bakery salad, do add to it. Made with mixed greens, romas, red onions, grilled mushrooms and apples, it is tossed in sherry orange vinaigrette. I find this salad to be a bit pedestrian.

The Duck salad ($10.95) is stellar, both in flavor and consistency. A large plate of spinach, mixed greens, pecans and Gorgonzola cheese is tossed in warm bacon vinaigrette. Fresh off the grill or from the pan is always a sign that the kitchen cares about its food. The tender slices of duck were hot with even a slight sizzle, and were prepared to a medium to medium rare. This is an enormous salad, with plump bits of cheese lightly coated with the vinaigrette, roasted pecans and plentiful duck. My dining companion could not eat it all, and despite my not leaving anything on my own plate, I charged into hers robustly.

I ate the Chicken Salad with Pecans and Apples ($7.95) the second time and was amazed. Apples are at their best right now, but the addition of tart, crisp and fresh Granny Smith slices enlivened it. Fresh mixed greens were topped with chicken, pecans and apples in a light mayonnaise dressing, with those great grilled mushrooms, tomatoes and onions off to the side. This salad is light, yet satisfying.

The bread is wonderful; none of us either time could keep our hands off of it. I also loved the original bread, those thick slices of grilled dough brushed with butter. That has been replaced with a hot round loaf with the slightest crisp of crust, and warm soft inside. Fresh herbs are baked into the round and even when I was no longer hungry I accepted another serving. This is the best restaurant bread in town.

No one ordered any sandwiches, but all are served with French fries or a pasta salad. I hear that the Pecan-Crusted Soft Shell Po-Boy ($10.95) is very worthy. They have a burger, shrimp and fish po-boys, and a Reuben.

In the past, my eyes were always drawn to the fish selections—Blackened or Grilled Fish of the Day ($10.95) and a Grouper Almondine as well. On my first visit they had blackened tuna as the special fish. The blackening seasoning was definitely a kick, but that was not all you tasted, the soft tuna was not overpowered. The fish was atop a brown rice with an addictive spicy béarnaise sauce and sautéed vegetables. Squash, zucchini and carrots are sautéed crisply, not in a lot of oil and really complement the dish. I ate this by getting a forkful of rice, with tuna, picking up a vegetable slice and dragging it through the béarnaise.

The Smoked Blue Crab Cake ($9.95) was full of crab, not filler and served with a citrus sour cream. The sour cream had a nice hint of orange that worked. It was served with the vegetables and rice as well.

I tend to look at things as “so yesterday,” moving on to the next hot thing. The Bakery is definitely not yesterday, but maybe just taken for granted. They could work a bit on service, but overall the Bakery has put some sizzle into the tried and true.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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