Cuisine Review

Joe Cain Cafe raising the bar on casual eating

Joe Cain has never been treated so royally. The Battle House is amply throwing to the crowds what is their best effort yet in food service with the Joe Cain Café. Off to the north front side of the building, The Battle House took time to craft a festive space that amply respects its namesake.

Soft, bright, natural light fills the room, as provided by the large windows on two sides of the restaurant. And while the colors of Mardi Gras are all around you, they taunt you like the dazzle of a well-constructed parade. Dark brown wood encases the windows, with high seating reminiscent of white marble lab tables set with green leather stools that are complimented by low-slung circular tables with leather chairs.

An interior curved window is capped with an upturned brushed aluminum crown, the peaks drawn up with wire like a puppet. A large oval bar welcomes you as only a friend would, with a broad display of liquor. In fact, the bar menu entices you into the carnival spirit with drinks such as the Fat Tuesday Float ($9) made with light rum, spiced rum, cranberry, pineapple and grenadine with Grand Mariner Float and the Joe Cain’s Soon-to-Be-Famous Coconut Martini ($9) with Absolut Vanilla, Malibu Rum, a splash of pineapple and lime juices. A wide selection of beers and “old school” drinks such as the stinger, gimlet, Rob Roy and Manhattan can ply you into acting like you are in costume.

Orders are taken at the counter where a stack of copper-colored menus teach the tourists all about Joe before delving into his offerings. This is a casual place, and so is the menu. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner (the latter are served “until,” which I believe is midnight) everyday. I have not been for breakfast, which is served each day from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., but have been told the breakfast wrap ($6) is tasty with scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese and a choice of bacon or sausage.

They also have fresh fruit, a Belgian waffle with fresh fruit and whipped cream ($8), a croissant with bacon, egg and cheese or a quiche du jour. Be mindful that while you may think the prices are higher than some, what you receive is a good throw – amply served.

The menu is divided into appetizers, soups, salads, paninis, wraps and pizza (but then again, who’s isn’t these days?). I have eaten lunch here four times since they opened, for one reason or another, and have returned because the food is good, the service attentive and the experience pleasant.

On my last two visits it was as if I was at the county fair, as there were a few barkers. But hopefully some of the staff was filled with the spirit that day. The staff can handle a crowd and requests with aplomb. For example, they have sweet tea, but the regular tea is Nestea. Yes. But, one of the employees on my first visit did not blink when I asked if I could get some real tea. And on my last visit, I did not mention it, but when I replied to my server’s question about how I liked the Nestea, I mentioned a desire for the real thing. He left and came back with a pitcher from the dining room and said he was working on changing the situation.

Of the appetizers, I will say that each is a meal unto itself. Take the nachos ($8) for example. Piled high in the basket, chips are hard to see amongst the cheese, fresh pico de gallo, jalapenos, sour cream and mound of fresh guacamole sprinkled with a unique touch – capers. When I went with the children, we ordered the nachos and Joe Cain wings ($10, dozen) and had plenty of food. What I enjoyed most about the wings was the hefty quality of the chicken that was grilled and tossed slightly with sauce.

Crab and spinach au gratin ($9) and seared tuna with wasabi sauce ($10) are two I have not tried but ought to be a good catch. What you can make a meal out of is the Thai chicken lettuce wraps with peanut sauce ($9). While low-carb, this is not the only reason to order. Strips of grilled chicken lay next to fresh green lettuce, carrots, ginger and peanut dressing.

They have black bean soup ($4) every day. I did have the soup du jour ($4) on one day but I cannot remember what it was called. When we asked about it, they offered to bring out a sample. Two of us ordered it and even on a hot day ate it all. It was tomato-based, with vegetables, potatoes and large, dumpling-like pasta. But don’t fool yourself and think you can pair this with a salad – they are large enough for a meal, but when combined with something else would be good to share.

When I ordered the soup, I paired it with the mixed greens salad ($8) tossed with goat cheese, strawberries and candied pecans alongside a vinaigrette. It is a buoyant combination of sweet with crumbles of pungent cheese. I have been with someone who had the Asian Salad ($7) and enjoyed the dried noodles, mandarin oranges with sesame vinaigrette. You can add chicken, salmon or Portabello mushroom to any salad for $3. They have a Greek, Caesar and Spinach salad as well. The spinach has pears and candied pecans in addition to the blue cheese.

There is variety with the paninis and wraps (when can we just go back to calling them sandwiches, is that not what they really are?). One friend was not only pleased to see the local tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil on foccacia ($9) but spoke highly of the apt description of the elements. Twice I have been with people who took on the open faced meatloaf panini ($10) that comes with bacon and tomato relish. The sandwich is heavy and flavorful with mild Italian spices.

The Portobello mushroom panini ($9) is a good vegetarian choice – my friend’s plate was empty. I like thin crust pizza and these are Joe’s style, which are all about medium in size and range from $9-$12. There are six of them, with the Proscuitto and Provolone, Spinach and Feta White and Pepperoni being the ones I have sampled.

This is not your average hotel restaurant, but a place to hang out – to watch sports on their many wide screen TVs or perhaps dance the second line, as I witnessed a group doing one recent Friday evening to the tunes of a live Dixieland Band.

There are a lot of nice things you can say about the Battle House, but in my opinion, this is the jewel in their crown.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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