Cuisine Review

We have no “true” delis in town or at least none that have come to my attention. Panera and Atlanta Bread don’t really count; they are chain sandwich outlets.

We do, however, have many fine local sandwich restaurants around town. Pepperpots, a casual sandwich and coffee bar at the Loop did a nice business in the Korbet’s Square development, just down from the Double Olive, for some time.

But after the owner decided to move on to other pursuits, two local guys, Beau Mullins and Nick Frey, purchased the business and redubbed the spot as The Water Table. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, their menu is an extensive mix of salads, wraps, po-boys and sandwiches. In the last few weeks I have eaten there twice.

It is enormously popular, upon each visit there was a line to order and tables were filled. The owners have done their best, but there is little to brag about the interior. It was not originally set up to be a restaurant, and was historically retail space. There is some interesting artwork and basic tables and chairs. It is neat, clean and the staff is personable and friendly. This lends a welcoming air to the place. They also store some of the breads, fruits and vegetables they use in the main area, which is not only a good use of space, but gives the restaurant some character.

There are daily specials and soups of the day. I haven’t tried any of the soups but saw a broccoli and cheese soup on one recent visit that appeared creamy with chunks of broccoli. Another day French onion was the soup of the day.

For sandwiches, the special both of the last two times was the Manhattan – pastrami, cheese, grilled peppers and onions with spicy mustard, grilled on rye. All of the meats here are of fine deli quality -thick, hearty slices, full of flavor. This sandwich is a unique combination for me at least, the peppers and onions mellowed out the spiciness of the pastrami.

My tablemate on that day ordered the Muffaletta ($7.50) – ham, salami, provolone, Swiss and olive salad on a toasted five-and-a-half-inch Muffaletta loaf. Their po-boy and muff bread are both Gambino’s, with a soft chewy texture. I like Muffalettas when they are not crammed to the ceiling with olive salad. I do not like olives, but will tolerate olive salad if it does not overpower the sandwich. And I have also not had too many good ones in the area (219 has one of the better ones).

The Water Table’s muffaletta is the best – everything comes together here for them in this sandwich. The good meat, plenty of cheese, the bread and just enough tangy olive salad to add, not compete with everything else. All of the sandwiches here are large as well. On one occasion, I could not eat it all.

On an earlier visit several months ago, I ate the chicken wrap ($6.75) which is a grilled chicken breast, lettuce, tomato, cheese and tomato basil dressing. All of the wraps use oversized tortillas and are stuffed with ingredients. The chicken was well grilled, warm and the dressing was zesty. The other day my stomach was still weak from an illness, so I chose something comforting, the French Dip (my total bill with extra chips and a tea was $8.79) tender slices of beef with no fat to be seen on po-boy bread. The salty dip was flavorful and I dipped each bite. It was a very good choice.

The best thing on the menu I believe is a sleeper – the Ahi Tuna Wrap ($8.25) – so pink and tender, seared to perfection with lettuce, tomato, wasabi and purple onion. It truly is almost too big to eat at once. My friend ordered a side salad that overflowed from the basket with carrots, olives and mixed greens.

My same friend who loved to eat the muff on our previous visit and his hot female companion were there as well. He had the tuna wrap and she ordered another of the specials – shrimp salad on a croissant. It was moist, but not gooey, with medium-size, identifiable shrimp, not the tiny sea monkey variety, and they were presented on a slightly toasted croissant with lettuce and very fresh, home-grown tasting, tomatoes.

All items come with one side – pasta salad, cole slaw, baked potato salad, chips, soup or spicy corn and tomato salad. My first two times I had the potato salad, which was similar to others in town that are made with sour cream and some bacon. I recommend that, but my last visit they were trying out a yellow potato salad. It did not look appealing and was nothing to bust down the doors to order. They did tell me they are likely going back to the baked potato salad. They should. The other side I have tried is the corn and tomato, almost like a salsa salad that seems quite popular, but did not spin my top.

The menu has a full selection – basic salads, and some appealing po-boys. I will try out the roast beef po-boy next time made with grilled peppers and onions on French bread. My friend who has tried the portabella mushroom wrap liked it, saying it worked well with peppers, onions and bleu cheese dressing. Other menu items include chicken salad, a large BLT, turkey or regular club and Reuben. These are just a few of the many selections.

Friendly, made-to-order and quality are the superlatives here for the Water Table. Kind of like a mail-order bride from Asia.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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