Cuisine Review

Birmingham is still blessed with good, local chef talent, along with mentors and entrepreneurs ready to provide opportunities for new restaurants with the latest in cooking. When there recently on business, I could not count the number of times people remarked to me about all of the growth and change happening in Mobile, and that quality of life will surely follow. I think it is.

One of the recommendations made to me about dining in Birmingham was to book a table at 26, a self-described hipster joint adjacent to Ocean, which is the fancier restaurant version of 26. 26 is located in the heart of Five Points South, in downtown Birmingham. This area was derelict about 25 years ago, then became cool. Highlands Bar and Grill – well known throughout the country for its food – anchored the area and others followed. A co-worker of mine was along for the trip to 26.

The space is ultra cool. A long curvy bar runs the depth of the restaurant to an open kitchen and a comfortable, lively seating area takes up the remainder of the room. The bar, and tables, are made of a marbled type material, mossy green with flecks. The bar, however, has pinholes of light that dim and brighten in the material, and the wall behind the bar gradually changes colors, which affects the aura.

Stainless chairs and some plush red upholstery seating are complemented by mood lighting and large, barrel-shaped light fixtures (like those in the Battle House bar). The wait staff is dressed in attractive, yet slightly rumpled moss green shirts and jeans. The crowd was a mix – young things, older, even some senior couples, wives out on the town, a large table of professional types and marrieds.

There had been a hiccup that I thought might derail the experience when we first entered. 26 was packed. A youthful, deer-in-headlights hostess sat a couple in front of us down immediately after telling them that of course there was a table available even though they had no reservation. She then told us that our “table was being cleared” and asked if we would sit at the bar for just a minute.

There was no table being cleared, and she continued to avoid me, so after five minutes I politely asked her how the table clearing was going. A nice table was quickly found. Just tell me the truth – OK? That was the last iota of uneasiness.

Our table was served by one-and-a-half waiters. Our main waiter was slammed with a party of about 10. He greeted us, told us that while the other table may take his attention, another was gong to look out for us as well. And that was done. That overrides the liar.

For the most part, I only drink water. At 26, carafe bottles of freezing cold water are brought to your table on arrival – welcome and refreshing. The menu is an eclectic mix. I eyed two of the largest hamburgers I have seen in awhile whisk above my head while we perused the menu.

House ground, this burger ($13), is held together with olive herb foccacia, proscuitto, goat cheese, roma tomatoes, balsamic romaine hearts with truffle-scented fries. Have I given you an idea of how forward this place is? No greasy cheeseburger in paradise. But, our waiter steered me (no pun intended) to try something else for my first time.

The dinner menu begins with 10 sushi rolls, ranging in price from $9-$10 and appeared large enough to merit. There is an “inside out” tuna melon roll, BBQ eel with avocado, cucumbers, carrots and sweet soy and a spicy beef made with tenderloin, carrots, bok choy and sambal aioli.

Some of the “starts” could serve as a main course for those not terribly hungry. I was told the Gulf Coast shrimp spring roll ($7) with hot mustard and sweet chili glaze is just fiery enough to bite the tongue while still imparting a fresh shrimp taste. Their roasted shallot hummus, pesto, tapenade and crisped bread ($7) comes with plenty for the table to snack on while enjoying your drink.

We decided to each have a salad instead, choosing the baby arugula, radicchio, grilled red onion, shaved mushrooms, shaved Parmesan in a lemon vinaigrette ($7). I love arugula, but I predict that it is soon to become the next Caesar. The salad was superb – the sweet, thick rings of grilled onion and bitterness of the greens were tempered by the citrus dressing. A grilled salmon, roasted corn, green beans, bacon, tomatoes, onion salad with garlic thyme dressing ($15) was abundant and colorful as I watched it being eaten at the next table.

The mains are wide in choice – from the hamburger to roasted halibut. The most expensive was the cumin and coriander tuna ($25) with purple Peruvian coin potatoes, blistered grape tomatoes, sautéed spinach with whole grain mustard vinaigrette.

I must admit the descriptions can be a bit detailed, and maybe even tiring. After forgetting the burger, I was torn between the citrus braised short ribs with roasted garlic yellow grits, cipollini onions and carrots in natural jus ($19) or the Berkshire pork chop (yes, from the Berkshires) with a wild mushroom risotto, wilted baby arugula in a dark cherry balsamic glaze ($22). The pork chop was the bomb. A fist-sized tender cut was surrounded by a rich risotto with the arugula interspersed. The glaze was not the least bit sweet, but deep and intense. And a true glaze, that did not overwhelm.

The spicy slow braised pork – fancy chopped pork with crunchy slaw, noodle salad and ancho chili aioli ($16) would be a good choice – haute BBQ. My friend chose the Gulf Coast Shrimp and George’s Bank Sea Scallops with proscuitto, shiitake mushrooms, sweet peas and handmade pasta in a sage white wine cream ($23) – and it tasted as decadent and filling as it sounds.

This co-worker always talks me into dessert, and she cajoled me into the wonderfully light chocolate pot de crème with homemade chai cookies, candied orange peel and Grand Marnier ice cream ($7) – my other choice would have been the “chips and dip” – a citrus pine nut mascarpone cream with cannoli chips and candied oranges ($7.50) The pot de crème was plenty enough for two. Or you can drink your dessert ($11), with a trio of martinis – chocolate-covered cherry, cheesecake tini and apple pie tini. In addition to dinner, which is served from 5 – 10 p.m., there is a limited late night menu offered until midnight.

Here is the deal. Great, creative and affordable food can be served and money can be made at a price point that does not break the bank. 26 shows the difference between good and great – up-to-date, stylish atmosphere, well-dressed and trained staff, attention to detail, quality food at a quality price.

I mean, come on, booze is what makes the money. If you provide the rest like they do at 26, the pretty people come, and the flow never stops.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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