Café 219 back in business

Photo | https://www.facebook.com/219-223863314319833

It was St Patrick’s Day of this year when I last had a meal at downtown’s Café 219. Owner Todd Henson was getting out of the biz, but new owners were waiting in the wings to keep the landmark lunch spot open.

Ron and Alisha Atchison came to Mobile from Fort Smith, Arkansas, just in time for the welcoming Mobile heat. The couple previously owned five bars in their last hometown, but Alisha, a California native, was happy to head farther south with Ron, a Mobile native, to pretty much nab a turnkey operation.

The first activity we saw were some excellent-looking charcuterie boards, not normally on the 219 menu, set up for call-in orders. They then opened the doors to customers for what turned out to be the exact same menu. Smart move. Henson is still on board for the time being, staying at least until the couple gets their legs under them. It’s like “The Godfather.” “Every time I try to get out … they pull me back in!”

I made it into a familiar booth where I had my usual wedge salad, gumbo and red beans and rice. My wife recalled her favorite Thai chicken wrap. I celebrated with a glass of wine prior to my post-meal haircut. It was familiar, delicious and perfect.

Nothing has changed, as far as I can tell, just the fact that you can get some attractive charcuterie if you call ahead. It starts at around $20 and goes up. The sky is the limit. One of the cool things they are doing is a board nestled into a letter tray. Now I need to figure out which letter holds the most meat and cheese. I need a friend whose name starts with “Q.”

Bayley’s Seafood closes

It’s a sad day when one of Mobile’s longest-running restaurants shuts its doors. It’s been 75 years since Mobile County was introduced to Bayley’s Seafood. The original began in the Theodore area in 1947 under the eye of Bill Bayley, focusing on local, fresh seafood in a communal restaurant where everyone seemed to know each other.

As the restaurant grew, eventually seating in the hundreds, so did Bayley’s creativity. It was here we were lucky to first see West Indies Salad, a mixture of crab claw meat, onion, oil, vinegar and a touch of ice water. Simple and delicious, this dish is elegant enough for the finest tables and low-brow enough for a cup at a picnic.

As important to our culinary heritage as West Indies Salad is, it may be another Bayley creation that has made more of an impact. We can trace fried crab claws to this early restaurant. What started out as a new style of appetizer eventually grew to be a feature on seafood platters and entrees throughout the South. I remember my first.

Bill Bayley Jr. has been in his current location for the past 27 years, carrying on what his father started so long ago. But staffing shortages have forced them to close their doors, like many other restaurants. Cooks and waitstaff were too hard to come by. When they announced their closing date, supporters showed up so hungry that the restaurant ran out of seafood a day earlier than expected.

This place will be missed. Here’s to hoping the issues will be resolved and Bayley’s is back on its feet before these traditions are lost in the wind.

El Rincon opens for exciting Mexican

The hottest buzz in Mexican food is the new El Rincon Tacos and Grill, located at 7272 Theodore Dawes Road. The new restaurant has an impressive menu of appetizers, a taco section that is 15 deep, tortas, seafood, chicken, ribeyes three ways and grill favorites. If you’re looking for lengua, campechano, tripa and such, you’ll find them here. This isn’t a “point to the number” kind of place.

The words “fresh” and “authentic” keep being used. They are only a month or so into this, but the fans are rabid. It’s looking good over there. I’ll be telling you more soon.

Clare’s trout recipe

I recently received a couple of filets from my good friend Fritz LaCour. He says he caught them and cleaned them, but his granddaughter Clare tells me otherwise. She says she’s the one who caught the majority of these fish and that I, more than likely, was cooking something from her hook. No need to launch an investigation, but if I follow my gut, I’m going with Clare!

I love trout, smoked, grilled or whatever. This was a rainy evening for pan-frying. Trout is a great fish for a good pan sauce, and that’s our focus here. After dusting the fish in flour, I fried it up in 1 teaspoon of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of butter, cooking both sides over medium heat. You’re hoping for little brown bits stuck to the pan, and the flour helps, but feel free to cook them nude with a little salt and pepper.

Pan sauce

1/2 cup white onion or shallot, diced

1 garlic clove, diced

1 cup white wine

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon capers

1 tablespoon butter

Once your fish is cooked, add the onion, cooking 1 minute. Scrape the pan with a wooden spoon or spatula to free up the remnants. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add wine, lemon juice and zest. Bring to a boil.

Once the wine boils, add capers and swirl in the butter. Pour over the fish. Serve with rice, pasta, orzo or vegetable medley, basically anything that would enjoy a helping of this sauce. It’s so easy and quick, but light and effective. Add parsley for color and flavor.

Thanks be to you, Mr. Fritz, and thank you, Clare, for setting us straight. I’ll give credit to you for catching them, to your grandfather for cleaning them and to me for cooking them. Delicious!