Sundays in Mobile are full of breakfast and brunch options, good and bad, but what about the rest of the week? Those that roll out the red carpet during “church hours” don’t usually serve the Benedicts and mimosas in the working mornings. If you crave better breakfast and brunch offerings on unholy days, then you will be more than satisfied with Brick & Spoon.
Located at the eastern end of the Yester Oaks Shopping Center, the Mobile Brick & Spoon is the fourth location after Lafayette, New Orleans and Orange Beach. Yes, it’s a franchise, but not the cookie-cutter type you’ve come to know from other restaurant chains. There is some serious cooking between these bricks.
My first encounter was for breakfast a couple of weeks ago. We tried the Garden Omelet ($11), full of seasonal vegetables and feta with a side of fire-roasted grits. I also sampled an a la carte plate of hash browns ($3), cheese grits ($3), crab cake ($5) and an egg ($1.50) over easy. I wasn’t exactly crazy about the fire-roasted grits, but you may be. Everything else was perfect.
I was fond enough of my breakfast that warm Saturday morning that I decided to return for lunch in the middle of this week with Rob and Pinky T. These guys open at 7 a.m. and close at 2 p.m., so don’t dilly dally. You’ll not be there for supper. The focus is morning/lunch fare, and you can certainly get a creative cocktail no matter the time of day.
We were working, so we neglected the giant build-your-own bloody mary. Should you desire, you have 50 options, including a choice of a dozen vodkas, 14 veggies, herbs and seasonings, plus meats and, yes, cheeses for an additional $1 each. They even offer a tasso strip!
Arriving at lunchtime is a different mentality for me. I had already had my over-easy early that morning, so the appetizer was going to have to be the Deviled on the Bayou ($12). Four tasso deviled eggs (two eggs cut in half) were each topped with Sriracha aioli and a fried oyster. Pinky is not really a fan of boiled eggs so I scarfed down two (since I was buying) and Rob got one and a half. This is a great deviled egg, ranking high with my favorites in the city. Bravo.
Pinky was all into the Breakfast Tacos ($10). Scrambled eggs and chorizo were the stars of the show, topped with a bit of romaine, mango salsa and Monterey Jack cheese. All of this was stuffed into two fried wonton shells. Crispy, savory and sweet, these were good, the only trouble being the shells fell apart with ease. The price includes french fries.
The Shrimp and Avocado Sandwich ($14) was too tempting for Rob. The sourdough bread with tarragon caper aioli (hey, it isn’t mayonnaise) was a warm blanket for grilled Gulf shrimp, grilled onions, fresh avocado, Monterey Jack and spring mix. It’s a pretty powerful sandwich, and despite a nasty head cold I was afforded a bite. I’d be happy having this sandwich again if I wasn’t dead set on trying the Soft Shell Crab BLT next time.
This sandwich also came with a side of fries, but Holbert decided to upgrade to Parmesan truffle fries ($1 extra). Don’t get the idea of shaved truffles for a buck, but truffle oil and shredded Parmesan did set these off. Even with ketchup they were delicious.
I thought hard about that BLT, but this time I figured it best to try something from the entrée section of the menu. Grilled Shrimp and Oysters ($16) caught my eye. I was told all of the seafood comes from the Gulf, so why not? A bed of fresh spinach supported mildly spiced grilled shrimp and fried oysters (the same as the ones on the eggs, small but tasty) and a side of seasonal vegetables.
I loved the perfectly soft shrimp next to crispy oysters, the best of both worlds. The sautéed veggies, mostly yellow squash, were good but cooked in something with a nutty flavor that may not appeal to fans of olive oil. I wouldn’t kick them off the plate unless they were better on the floor, but I was still partial to the less healthy truffle fries.
As far as desserts go, there isn’t a proper menu section for them but there are plenty of sweet things to choose from. We abstained but there were temptations. Bananas in Pajamas ($9) I hear are a Brick & Spoon favorite, basically banana eggrolls with Foster sauce. There are also beignets with several options for sauce and marmalade, as well as stuffed French toast sliders that could sub for your normal cake, pie or ice cream.
I was actually relieved to see a break from your run-of-the-mill bread pudding (no offense to those who serve it), although I believe their Louisiana roots might suggest they would make a good one.
If there is one thing to say about Brick & Spoon it’s that they don’t go into it half-cocked. Every dish we tried took a good deal of care to craft in some way or another. Even if I wasn’t crazy about something, I can say they are going the extra mile when they could just coast, and I am certain someone else would love what I didn’t.
It’s a little on the pricey side but what you are getting is good. This location is still new, so if you went early and weren’t a fan of the service I can say my two experiences went off without a hitch. A possible downside is I don’t remember seeing a kid’s menu, but that could easily be remedied with the a la carte or the reasonably priced pancakes and bacon.
Try it if you have not.
Brick & Spoon
3662 Airport Blvd., Suite A Mobile 36608
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